Un simpatico paese: NOVI DI MODENA

12 01 2007


Quest? oggi voglio imbarcarmi nel tentativo, già altre volte ampiamente fallito, di descrivere a parole la beltà e crepuscolare dolcezza di un grigio amabile paesino che ben conosco nella pianura padana: NOVI DI MODENA.
Quei due o tre che mi leggono si chiederanno cosa porti un cittadino di mare a parlare di un paesetto disperso nella nebbia nordica. Presto detto: ci abita la mia fidanzata. Punto. Quindi ci son stato più volte e lo conosco discretamente bene ormai. Va puntualizzato che la mia fidanzata ci abita ma non è nata lì e non ha alcun trasporto emotivo per questo luogo. Diciamo che lo odia con tutte le sue forze. E? felice di parlarne male ed è ben contenta di portarmi lontano da lì, che ci sia nebbia o ci sia il sole.
Ma andiamo a sviscerare meglio la situazione novese.
Novi va cercato per benino, perché, seppur disteso dalle parti del Po, a prima botta non si trova. Si distende ampio e rigoglioso con i suoi grigi ipercolorati palazzi tra Rolo (che fa provincia di Reggio Emilia), Carpi (che fa provincia di Modena) e Moglia (che fa provincia di Mantova). Da qualche parte là non troppo lontano c?è il Po, ma i novesi non sembrano badarci più di tanto. Almeno da quel che ho visto, mi sembra che i rolesi ci siano più affezionati. Vicino Novi c?è il vecchio campo di concentramento di Fossoli, quindi se per il Giorno della Memoria (e non solo per quello) si vuol capire qualcosa in più sullo sterminio nazista, passare da queste parti è utilissimo.
Negli stessi pressi, purtroppo, c?è il centro di compostaggio, che invade di puzza tutta la zona, particolarmente nelle sere estive, che se uno vuol stare con le finestre aperte e non è abituato alla situazione diventa un dramma.
Là vicino da poco anche una grande centrale elettrica, che a vederla di sera fa molto effetto Los Angeles.
Minori legami invece ci sono con la Festa della Liberazione. Andandoci in quei giorni ho visto che altri paesi si riempiono di bandiere, mentre i novesi sembrano curarsene poco. E? pur vero che comunque molte strade e stradine son dedicate al ricordo partigiano.
La struttura urbana di Novi è oltremodo semplice: un grande spiazzale, con una stele alla memoria dei caduti in guerra (e una pizzeria dove qualunque cosa tu chieda ti dicono subito ?venti minuti ed è pronta?, a qualunque ora tu ci vada), poi un grande viale (con un semaforo che segna sempre rosso per i pedoni, quindi è bene infischiarsene e passare, tanto al massimo passa una bicicletta), quindi la piazza principale e a seguire il corso. Alla fine del corso c?è già la strada per andare da qualche altra parte. Dritto e semplice. Il bello è che in questa drittezza e semplicità non si incontra una chiesa che sia una. Il comunismo a Novi è arrivato in pompa magna ed ha fatto piazza pulita di simboli religiosi. Mi vien detto da amici che il prete di Novi è un bel tipino. Bhè poverino, l?hanno confinato chissà dove.. vorrei ben vedere! A Rolo la chiesa la trovi subito. A Brescello (il paese dei film di Don Camillo) anche. Nel gran vialone di Novi trovi invece un vecchio teatro (stile quasi liberty direi) che sta lì bello bello come una torta quasi ad ammonimento sull?importanza della cultura laica rispetto alla teologia.
Altro luogo importante, sito proprio nella piazza della cittadina, è il bancomat. Ci vanno tutti, e direi che è il tempio pagano del paese. Altro tempio pagano è naturalmente la ?Coop?, che impera sovrana sull?economia del paese.
Vicino alla piazza centrale c?è la villa, o parco cittadino. Una piccola oasi di verde con altalene ed uno strano, quasi metafisico, arcobaleno fatto in cemento. Bella l?idea di questo arco colorato, che attraversa il giardinetto. Un po? meno bella l?idea di farlo in cemento.
A memoria mia ci sono due tabaccai a Novi. Con uno di questi ho passato il Capodanno giorni fa e posso dire che è persona simpatica. L?altro lo conosco meno, ma mi sento di dirne bene.
Nel corso principale ci sono i negozi principali. Mi permetto di ricordare soprattutto: la giornalaia (che ha sempre il corriere della sera e mai repubblica), il farmacista (sulla cui avarizia si sprecano voci e voci, nonché sulla sua passione per l?astronomia) e la venditrice di vestiti . Anche con quest?ultima ho trascorso il Capodanno ed anche di lei mi sento di parlar bene. Gran simpaticona. In buona misura mi ricorda certi personaggi felliniani, spontanei e gaudenti.
Dal punto di vista economico, tuttavia, Novi si basa essenzialmente su un?attività: le scale. Negli anni la cittadina si è specializzata in scalifici e all?entrata del paese è tutto un pullulare di industrie che fanno scale, di tutti i tipi e dimensioni. In legno, in ferro, a chiocciola.. tutto. Son sempre rimasto affascinato da questa unicità e più volte mi son trovato a immaginare trasognato come possa essere una persona che di lavoro fa il collaudatore di scale e sale e scende tutto il giorno. Chissà com?è.. chissà se esiste soprattutto.
Qualcuno usa l?auto a Novi, ma i più vanno in bicicletta. Per me che vengo da Palermo, dove se uno va in bicicletta lo prendono per scemo e lo ricoverano alla Salute Mentale, all?inizio è stata una realtà difficile da comprendere. Signore anziane. Anche più che anziane, che in pomeriggi anche invernali ed anche nebbiosi inforcano la bici e scompaiono oltre i confini del paese. Ma dove vanno? Mistero?.
Due grandi eventi attraversano Novi, ed entrambi son legati al mangiare. Uno, più altisonante e reclamizzato è la Festa della Rana, l?altro un po? più micragnoso è la sagra del pescegatto.
Perché la Rana attiri più del Pescegatto non so dirlo con certezza. La mia idea è che la prima sia una cosa più popolare e tradizionale. Il Pescegatto è roba per palati fini, viene consumato in giornate speciali in cui il circolo del paese compila un menù tutto a base di paescegatto.
La rana, porca miseria, ho provato a mangiarla una cinquantina di volte. Mai che mi sia riuscito. In gran parte ciò è dovuto al fatto che i miei tentativi vengono biecamente boicottati dalla mia diletta fidanzata, la quale odia le rane e l?idea di mangiarle forse ancor più di quanto odi il paese. Nel pratico accade che ogni volta che vengo a sapere che c?è la Festa, puntualmente finisce che sta festa c?è già stata o inizierà quando io sarò tornato a Palermo. Col tempo ho capito che in merito alle rane ormai si ride alle mie spalle, ma purtroppo le lunghe tavolate piene di rane fritte restano solo nella mia immaginazione.
Altro punto forte della storia del paese, poi, sono le mondine. Ricordo ancora con allegrezza di aver assistito ad un concerto (diciamo gospel?) di un nutrito gruppo di arzille vecchiette, che cantavano canzoni anche famose, tipiche della risaia. L?apice è stato sentirle cantare con gioia il loro inno di battaglia ?Noi siamo le Novesi, non siamo piemontesiiii..?.
Inutile dire che i carpigiani (che pure non sono abitanti di una metropoli?diciamo..) guardano i novesi con un misto di sufficienza e superiorità. I novesi tutto sommato sembrano comunque non curarsene più di tanto e guardano al loro orticello nebbioso. In linea di massima direi che sono poco propensi a parlare alle spalle, a ?sbragherare? come dicono loro. Mi vien detto che in altri paesi limitrofi i pettegolezzi girano più veloci e divertenti.
Comunque sia, mando un bacio ed un abbraccio ai noveri che mi leggono e dico a tutti che se passate di là, fermatevi 5 minuti e salutatelo per me.
Ciauzz!!


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228 commenti to “Un simpatico paese: NOVI DI MODENA”

19 01 2007
  Maccio (00:02:38) :

… ma guarda come è piccolo il mondo… mia madre è nata a Rovereto di Novi… :)

Saluti
Massimo

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Mi piace molto leggere i vecchi post… secondo me questo paese ti piace proprio, ovviamente non lo dico alla tua fidanzata!

E secondo me ti piace sopratutto perchè :” comunismo a Novi è arrivato in pompa magna ”

scherzo….

22 04 2008
  Rosa (22:53:59) :

Mi piace molto leggere i vecchi post… secondo me questo paese ti piace proprio, ovviamente non lo dico alla tua fidanzata!

E secondo me ti piace sopratutto perchè :” comunismo a Novi è arrivato in pompa magna ”

scherzo….

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